Install a stable terrace

To build a terrace that is stable now and still in many years, it’s important to have a good foundation. The foundation of a terrace consists of the foundation made of gravel and sand.

The first thing to do is to build a new fundament. For the excavation, there must be room for 12 cm stable gravel, 3 cm gravel gravel and the garden tile or the coating brick.

That means there should be about 20 cm depth to build a stable terrace.

The bottom protection grid is stamped with a plate vibrator. If the soil protection grit or any of the other layers are very dry before compaction, water must be watered because it must be moist to compress properly. Sand and gravel must not be very wet before compression.

When the bottom securing layer is in place, it must be prepared for edge protection of edge blocks. Under the edge fuse there must be room for minimum 10 cm concrete, so it may be necessary to dig a little of the bottom fuse away first. The concrete used can consist of 5 parts mold mix, 1 part cement and a small amount of water.

The concrete is laid in the renderings dug into the bottom fuse layer and the edge fuse is placed on top of the concrete. Between the edge fuse blocks there must be 3-5 mm groove, and the concrete is pulled slightly upwards by the edge fuse blocks, but without rising so that it will bend the tiles.

Edge boundary set in soil moisture is used to prevent the surface of the patio from slipping out

Before using the plate vibrator to compress the layer, first pull off stable so that the layer becomes planted. This can be done using water pipes. Remember to fill the grooves after the water pipes up with stable gravel.

Now it is important to investigate whether the layer of stable gravel is completely flat. On the stable gravel now approx. 4 cm gravel gravel consisting of washed sand. When this is compressed with the plate vibrator it will end at approx. 3 cm, which is neither a layer so thick that it gives an unstable terrace, nor a thin layer, so it’s hard to fix well.

Now the finishing layer must be planted at a height that will make the top of the tiles be about 1.5 cm above the edge fuse blocks, as the tiles typically will set 1-2 cm.

It is now time to lay the tiles, and it is recommended that strings be drawn which makes it easier to keep the joints alike. The joints between the tiles should be 3-5 mm thick. Always move the strings so there is always a string to assume that the joints do not get lean.

There is a continuous seal of fugitive sand. Make sure all garden tiles or coatings are properly positioned before joining. It is easiest to get a few joint teeth in the grout by diagonally sweeping.

When all tiles are laid and swept joint sand in all the joints, sweep the tiles and drive with a plate vibrator in one direction, after which sweep sand again and once the tiles are swept clean the plate vibrator in the opposite direction before grouting again .